The person who can be credited perhaps more than anyone with Mendoza's culinary renaissance is 28-year-old chef Lucas Bustos. In 2004, Bustos worked with Ruca Malén winery's Thibaud to launch a restaurant serving five-course menus that pair the bodega's wines with modern Mendozan dishes, like grilled beef with black-pepper butter. A year later he opened Bistro La Tupiña at Bodega Altus, a winery just down the road from Andeluna Cellars. His latest, open since March, is 743 Bistro, in Mendoza city's residential Bombal neighborhood; here he's getting the chance to express his own menu ideas more freely, without matching his food to a specific winery's bottlings.
Over dinner with Santiago Achával at 743, I taste some of Bustos's latest creations: arugula ice cream garnished with Parmesan cheese, a delicious rabbit cannelloni, and a sorbet of green apples and parsley. Everything is made with Mendozan ingredients. "People come to taste wine from this terroir, and I try to keep the food local too," Bustos says.
On my last day, I contemplate a hike up into the Andes. Instead, I decide to relax in Cavas's fireplace lounge, where I linger over a classic Mendozan salad of bitter herbs and stare out the window. Outside, the bright silver of the sky reminds me how starkly beautiful a rural winter can be
Over dinner with Santiago Achával at 743, I taste some of Bustos's latest creations: arugula ice cream garnished with Parmesan cheese, a delicious rabbit cannelloni, and a sorbet of green apples and parsley. Everything is made with Mendozan ingredients. "People come to taste wine from this terroir, and I try to keep the food local too," Bustos says.
On my last day, I contemplate a hike up into the Andes. Instead, I decide to relax in Cavas's fireplace lounge, where I linger over a classic Mendozan salad of bitter herbs and stare out the window. Outside, the bright silver of the sky reminds me how starkly beautiful a rural winter can be
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